Celebrate the end of the hungry gap (Sussex Life - May 09)

Like hibernating animals, the first watery rays of sunshine in March and April bring us forth in search of tasty greenery and succulent spring vegetables, only to find the same old winter staples – root vegetables, onions & kale – are all that can be found. It is often called the ‘hungry gap’ and it is not until towards the end of April that the abundance of new fresh produce we are craving can be obtained with any reliability.

In the meantime, if you are feeling adventurous, then a quick forage in any park, patch of scrubland or country lane or should yield enough wild nettles to make a light iron-rich soup. Be bold, wear gloves and pick the tops of the youngest, most succulent specimens you can find. A brief rinse and the nettles are ready to use in a spring soup which is the best way to bring out the delicate flavour. A tin of butter beans or cannellini beans will turn it into a heartier dish.

When you’ve had your fill of foraging, most farm shops, markets and vegetable box schemes will be offering a vegetable which really does shout spring - fennel. Pale green, crunchy & with a delicate aniseed flavour, fennel is too often written off as an accompaniment to fish, when really it can be the star of any meal. A member of the celery family, fennel can be used in place of celery in any dish. Italians prepare fennel in over 20 different ways and one of my favourites is fennel & onion risotto with plenty of parmesan cheese. Don’t forget to use the delicate fronds as a garnish.

The best of the rest in May
· Asparagus
· Purple sprouting broccoli
· Globe artichokes
· Early broad beans
· Runner beans
· Mangetout
· Peas
· New potatoes
· Watercress
· Early raspberries & strawberries
· Elderflower